Over various Italian foods, we caught up and discussed what it was we were to do for their nine day stay. Having recently left my job, I was free to do whatever they’d like. Aside from the normal San Francisco sightseeing, it was determined that we should do our best to break in the black 2011 Ford Fusion they had rented.

And what better to do way to do this but drive 270ish miles to Sequoia National Park? After viewing really big trees, we decided we’d head another 190 miles north to Yosemite National Park. From there, we’d complete the loop and head home. This plan sounded great! Though it did dawn on me that the last time I had spend five hours in a car with my family was 11 years prior, while driving from Maine to Pennsylvania. But really, how bad could it be?

After a few days of stuffing our faces, gazing at the Golden Gate Bridge and walking around Golden Gate Park, we prepped ourselves to head south. After many rounds of Angry Birds, some potato chips, sunflower seeds, beef jerkey, and good conversation, we started the ascent into the National Forest.

Since we had left early, we got to Sequoia National Park by early afternoon. It being mid-April, the lower valley’s landscape was a lush green and the views were exceptionally beautiful. Once we got our fill of the vistas, we aimed the Fusion at the real attraction, the Giant Forest. Having made it this far, we couldn’t leave without a glimpse of the General.

For those of you asking, “What in the sweet hell are you talking about?”, I’m talking about the General Sherman. As Wikipedia explains:

General Sherman is a Giant Sequoia (Sequoiadendron giganteum) with a height of 83.8 metres (275 ft). As of 2002, the volume of its trunk measured about 1,487 cubic metres (52,513 cu ft), making it the largest known non-clonal tree by volume.

At six-thousand feet in elevation, the roads were flanked by large banks of snow, giving the car ride a bobsled vibe. Once we arrive at the General’s parking lot, we quickly hit the trail to see ol’ Shermy. To be honest, I can’t really describe the tree beyond saying it’s really, really, really [expletive] big. I simply do not trust my vocabulary. It is something that needs to be seen in person to fully appreciate.

After spending some time admiring Mother Nature’s large-scale handy work, we piled back into the car and started north to Kings Canyon National Park. As we neared the entrance, we stopped at a trading post to inquire about hotels on the way to Yosemite. Along with some great suggestions, we also learned that the road to Kings Canyon was still closed to due to snow. Oh well. We spun around and headed back to route 99.

As we passed through Fresno, we debated if it was time for dinner, or if we should drive straight to Yosemite. We decided it wise to grab dinner, and stopped just north of Fresno. Our decision was validated when we looked at the map. The area between Fresno and Yosemite is sparsely populated at best. After a delicious meal, and quickly descending into food comas, we decided to stay put and find a hotel room nearby.

The next morning we hit the road bright and early, zipping up route 41 to Yosemite National Park. While the season’s tremendous snow fall didn’t allow a peak at Kings Canyon, it did provide spectacular waterfalls in Yosemite. In fact, as we walked around, we repeatedly heard tour guides mention that this was the best time of the year to visit.

Entering the park from the south, we realized that though Yosemite is known for its falls of the same name, there are several other majestic cascades. Included are Ribbon Falls and Bridalveil Fall. Other great features are El Capitan and Half Dome, both well known in rock climbing culture. As mentioned before, I simply don’t trust my writing to properly describe the sights found in Yosemite. What I can do is highly recommend visiting the Park in the early spring season. You won’t be disappointed.

It is true that I had originally questioned my ability to survive a two day road trip with my family. In the end, I made it unscathed and had an amazing time. I consider myself very lucky to have had the opportunity to share such a great experience.

Do you think you could manage several days in a beautiful part of the country with the people closest to you? Have you tried?

If you liked this post, try these:

• Roll that Beautiful Fly Fishing Footage!
• VIDEO: People in Yosemite
• Hiking the John Muir Trail

Ski Town U.S.A. (a.k.a. Steamboat Springs, Co.)

Background story detour…

While college graduation approached, I had made up my mind that I was not going to into the full time job realm. Instead, a mutual friend of the bachelor and I composed a list of ski resorts around the country that we’d like to live post-grad. Several weeks of being back home, living with our familes, got us vigorously hunting for jobs. In fairly short order, my friend and I each got solid offers in Steamboat. While we prepared for our departure west, the aforementioned bachelor called us and asked if we had room for a third. Luckily we did, and the three of us packed up my ’92 Ford Explorer and hit the road…

This history made the ‘Boat a natural choice. It also didn’t hurt that, while said bachelor and I had left Steamboat years earlier, our friend still calls it home.

Now the real planning began and all the usual wrinkles had to be ironed out. Who would be invited, where would we get cheap lift tickets and, most importantly, where the hell would we sleep? Our friend kindly offered to let us stay at his house, but as our group’s number climbed to ten, we politely declined. May I note that our refusal was much to his female roommates’ relief.

As I began pricing out hotel rooms, a conversation from earlier that summer popped into my head. The letters V, R, B and O, were all I could really remember from a thick, beer induced fog. A quick search on the Google brought the rest of the discussion back in a snap.

If you haven’t heard of it yet, VRBO is short for Vacation Rentals By Owner. And while most of the properties are still brokered by agents, the rates are way, way cheaper than anything you’d find in a hotel. Plus, you’re in a house or condo!

After a bit more intertube traveling, I found that Steamboat Springs was well represented on VRBO. I did a search with the dates we were going to be in town. From there, I looked for units that could sleep the number of people and had the price ranges we could afford. Within minutes, I had a comprehensive list of our lodging options. I plopped a list of links into an email and sent it to the guys who were attending. In a day or so, we had collectively made up our mind on which place to rent.

From there, I submitted an inquiry through the same website. Within the same day, I got a reply from a rental agent confirming that the unit was still available and explaining how payment would proceed. All I had to do was send two separate checks to their office. One for the full sum of the stay, and another for a security deposit. They would then send the checks to the property’s owner. Once the owner got the checks, and deposited the first check, he or she would send me information on how to get into the townhouse.

Though I was a little apprehensive about the Byzantine path my checks would have to take, all went according to plan. Within a few weeks of mailing my checks, I got an informative email from the owner regarding everything I’d need to know for my stay. The security check was held until we checked out and a cleaning person verified that nothing beyond normal cleaning was needed.

Once the long weekend arrived, everything went off without a hitch. The townhouse was as nice and as close to the mountain as advertised. Ullr graced us with fourteen inches of fresh powder for the first day, and he continued the flurries through to the second. Per usual, the vacation went entirely too fast, but it was really an excellent time.

I would highly recommend utilizing the VRBO service if you’re planning a trip. With the high amount prices of real estate on the market, owners are looking for any way to help pay the mortgage (or taxes for that matter). In the end, it’s infinitely cheaper than staying in a hotel, and you can save a bit more money by cooking in a night or two. If you have any questions, feel free to message me on twitter, @h0ke.

P.S. If you can find New Belgian Brewing’s new-ish beer, Ranger IPA, I HIGHLY recommend it. That is all.

If you liked this post, try these:

• Postcard From Bali – video by Stephen Kot
• My Favorite Blogs
• The Waters of Greenstone Trailer

What follows is a quick daily journal of the happenings during a five day road trip across the country. Starting in Maine, navigating mostly on Interstate 80, and ending in Concord, California, thirty miles northeast of San Francisco. I was joined by my lovely lady friend, Kelsey, and our fifteen-ish year old cat, Esmeralda (Ezie). My 2004 Volkswagen Golf was loaded with us, some food, travel clothing and houseplants. I hope you enjoy the trip!

Day One

Today we were off to a semi-late start, though, not really a huge surprise. Who thought that packing up the rest of the house, doing all final cleaning and packing a car would take more than one hour? Anywho, after a delicious breakfast at the Bayou Kitchen with Kelsey’s mom and a final stop at my parent‚Äôs house in Biddeford, we were on our way.

Our destination today was Ithaca, NY. Our good friends OD and Rhody were kind enough to offer their spare bedroom for our tired heads. We arrived after eight hours of travel and happily welcomed chilled beers and tasty cheeses.

After some amazing Thai food, an impromptu guitar lesson and great conversation, we retired to bed to prepare ourselves for tomorrow’s drive. We’re hoping to make it just south east of Chicago.

Mileage: 430
Map: http://bit.ly/aPYy4B
Ezie Status: Surprisingly Good!

Day Two

Today was started with a breakfast of eggs, cheese and fruit smoothies. After doing a bit of repacking, getting the cat in her newly engineered box and saying our goodbyes, we were off!

We were setting our aim on Portage, Indiana, a short ten hour jaunt. I took the wheel to start and enjoyed driving through the beautiful farm country of western New York. As we exited NY, we were graced with a beautiful view of Lake Erie. We cruised through a small sliver of Pennsylvania and soon found ourselves in Ohio. After Cleavland, Kelsey took the wheel and we kept cruising.

As the speed limit increased, the landscape flattened out and the size of the farms grew. Everything was still very lush and green, but instead of trees and grazing pastures, it was corn, tomatoes and beans. The transition from Ohio to Indiana didn’t provide much of a visual change, but eventually we gained an extra hour.

Once in Portage, we got the cat in the room, grabbed some dinner on the town and prepared for a good nights rest. Tomorrow promises to be a fairly flat run through a few middle western states. Next stop, somewhere around central Nebraska. Sweet!

Mileage: 635
Map: http://bit.ly/cw5f1G
Ezie Status: Very good. Only one box escape, as opposed to yesterday’s four! For a five pound, fifteen year old cat, she‚Äôs both strong and determined.

Day Three

With complimentary instant oatmeal, cornflakes, OJ and coffee in our systems, we were off and running, Portage, Indiana slowly shrinking in our rear view mirror. Today’s trip was a bit longer, at about eleven hours, as our goal was to get through both Illinois and Iowa.

To summarize today’s traveling I’ll offer you three words: Corn, Soybean and Windmill. Throw in the occasional truck stop and gentleman’s club and that just about sums it up. For anyone who’s traveled in these states, you’ll know what I’m talking about.

Kelsey was continuously impressed with the sheer flatness of these states. While it doesn’t make for much variety, it does offer the occasional amazing vista with farmland and interstate stretching on until the horizon.

We settled on Kearney, Nebraska as our stopping point today. As we checked into our motel, we read a pretty cool fact:

Because of its location 1,733 miles from Boston and 1,733 miles from San Francisco, Kearney once was called “Midway City of the Nation”.

Of course, what this also means is we still have a ways to travel yet. We better get going!

Mileage: 672
Map: http://bit.ly/ceuS8X
Ezie Status: The longer days make for a less excited cat. Somehow she escaped from the box again. When we get to California, I’m having her tested for steroids.

Day Four

Awesome. This word has been unfortunately bastardized over the years. “Totally awesome dude!” And not that I haven’t been guilty of using it that way, but more recently I’ve been opting for the term, “Awesome, in the definitive sense.”

That out of the way, I can say, without doubt, that our drive through Wyoming and a part of Utah did truly “inspire awe or admiration or wonder”. For however expansive the Midwestern states felt, Wyoming had us continually saying, “Holy $h1t!” Every small hill the road took us over, a new impressive vista greeted us.

While most of Wyoming seemed to be used for cattle grazing, it switched from rolling plains to scrubby prairie to rugged, rocky, seemingly uninhabitable terrain. More than once Kelsey exclaimed, “How can there be so much land?!”

As we entered Utah, things began to get a bit more green again and before long we were driving through winding canyons. Considering we hadn’t had to turn the steering wheel for the last two days, this was quite the task. As we whizzed by the exit for Park City, we began to ascend. Once at the top, it was 5-6% grades down to Salt Lake City. The views on the decent were, again, awesome. Unfortunately, between locals passing me at eighty miles per hour on the left and eighteen wheelers using low gears on the right, it was Kelsey who got to see most of the canyon.

Once in SLC, we found an amazing vegetarian restaurant, dined, checked into our hotel and promptly fell asleep. Tomorrow is the last day of the cross-country trip and our final destination is Concord, California.

Mileage: 752
Map: http://bit.ly/blP8L5
Ezie Status: No breakouts from the box today, however, I’m not sure she entirely enjoyed the continual changing of altitudes. Other than that, she’s tip top.

Day Five

Another continental breakfast in our bellies and we were off and running. Today was our last day of driving. Concord, California or bust!

While the views entering Utah were stunning, they were a tad monotonous on the exit. Granted the first view of salt flats, the Great Salt Lake and huge mounds of raw salt were pretty amazing, but after about thirty minutes, we were ready for Nevada. One hundred and thirty-ish miles later, we got our wish.

Similar to the previous few states, but different enough to get our attention, Nevada became our mountainous friend. Most notably, rather than setting the cruise control and holding the wheel straight, Nevada was a continuous series of ups and downs, lefts and rights as we navigated our way through multiple mountain ranges.

Nevada said goodbye to us with a gorgeous [sarcasm] view of Sparks and Reno, before we ascended one last time into the Tahoe National Forest. After peaking out at about seven thousand and three hundred feet, we began a forty mile decent to almost sea level. You don’t have to be a mathematician to know that the downgrades we had to drive were pretty severe.

Coming out of the forest, we found ourselves on five to seven lane freeways zipping west. In no time we (finally) saw signs for Concord. We checked into our hotel, filled ourselves with Thai food and readied ourselves for the next step of our adventure.

Mileage: 717
Map: http://bit.ly/dwzWFA
Ezie Status: We suspect she knew today was the last as well, and had pretty much dealt with as much of this trip as she could handle. That said, she’s happily perched on the bed next to me as I type this. Let’s hope she likes California too!

If you liked this post, try these:

• From the West: Beer Adventures Begin
• My Top 5 Short Road Trips
• From the West: A Barleywine Fest

So when The Girlfriend and I took off for a day of hiking fun, my hopes of finding some pure silence in the woods — and my impressions of Maine in general — rested on this one trip to Tumbledown Mountain just outside the tiny town of Weld. For a time, on this slightly overcast Monday, I felt as though I would be let down. But just like the weather in New England, just wait a few minutes and everything will change.

A late start and nebulous directions set our arrival time at the Brook Trail trailhead sometime after noon. Undeterred, the lady and I strapped on our boots, showered in bug spray, and sauntered off to the trailhead. This being our first moderately difficult hike together didn’t deter me (she readily admitted she was a little out of shape for it), but I did prep myself for a slower hike. Turns out, the slower pace was a good thing.

From the parking lot, it was a straight shot up an old logging road, abandoned long ago when the land around Tumbledown became protected. Traveling the 1.0 mile along this rock covered former roadbed can be tough on the feet and ankles, so it is recommended that you wear sturdy boots and take rest breaks. A twisted ankle is just not worth the hassle on this short, 1.5 mile hike.

At about a mile from the trailhead, the trail banks to the right, beginning the more challenging part of the hike. Really, the next .5 miles are what make this hike worth it. No pain, no gain, right? Climbing steeply up the side of the mountain, the trail follows Tumbledown Brook’s rocky carving, forcing you to clamber over glacial boulders, rocky tumbles, and staggering tree roots. Near the top, you’ll end up scrambling in a few points, but nothing too complicated. Just make sure you’re in relatively good shape before tackling this section.

When you scramble up the last rock outcropping, you’re immediately rewarded with a spectacular view of the tarn at Tumbledown. This alpine lake is a popular spot to sit and have lunch or take a quick dip in the cold waters (although I have it on good authority that the waters are less than pristine). The view is not mind blowing, but it’s enough to make you feel you kicked civilization to the curb with the rest of the trash.

The Brook Trail may be only 1.5 miles, but the steepness of the last .5 miles makes it a fun, challenging day hike that the whole family can enjoy. There are more challenging trails in the area as well, so if you find the Brook Trail too easy, take a trip over to the Loop Trail, Parker’s Ridge Trail, Tumbledown Ridge Trail, or Pond Link Trail.

MORE PHOTOS

The old logging road, part of Brook Trail at Tumbledown Mountain

One of the easier scrambles on Brook Trail

The View from Tumbledown Pond

Looking up at Tumbledown Mountain

If you liked this post, try these:

• TRIP REPORT: Portland Trails – Fore River Sanctuary
• The Five
• VIDEO – Hiking with Beer

The Sanctuary is easily accessible from many residential side streets, but almost immediately you forget you’re in a city. The pines and oaks seem to silence the usual din, and you’re left with soft winds and quiet waters. That is, of course, until you come upon Jewell Falls, an approximately 30 foot waterfall – Portland’s only natural water fall.

[FLOWPLAYER=http://filmosity.com/vids/Jewell_Falls_Time_Lapse.flv,480,360]
A short time-lapse video of Jewell Falls.

If you liked this post, try these:

• TRIP REPORT: Tumbledown Mountain, Maine
• National Trails Day: Helping Conserve & Preserve
• VIDEO: Compass Points TV Falls for Ricketts Glen

Chris Cavs at the Presumpscot River Preserve.

Big cities always have something to hide. And when you think of the secrets of a big city, you usually imagine them to be bad secrets. But when it comes to Portland – Maine’s largest city – those secrets are more like hidden treasures. Not many people know about them, but those who do are among a very special group. And so it is with Portland Trails, a network of multi-use trails all tucked away within the borders of Maine’s metropolis. My friend Bryan and I count ourselves among the special group of outdoors enthusiasts who know about these trails. And one day last week, we set out to find some of Portland’s amazing treasures.

Dead End Road

We set out from my apartment in downtown Portland at around ten in the morning, plugged some coordinates into my compadre’s GPS unit, and headed toward the Presumpscot River Sanctuary. Most of the Portland Trails trailheads lie at the end of dead-end residential streets, most times only marked with a small but colorful sign. We really didn’t need the GPS, as the directions are fairly simple, but to be safe, we used it anyway. Plus, we’re geeks, and we like techy gadgets. The Presumpscot River Sanctuary trails feature a canoe and kayak portage around Presumpscot Falls, a short section of rapids that breaks the relative tranquility of the surrounding river. I assume that due to this portage, a small parking area was built at the trailhead.

Walking less than a quarter of a mile, we came upon a break in the treeline. The glistening water drew us closer as we headed to a T-junction in the trail. We took a right down the trail that follows the beautiful Presumpscot River, stopping every few hundred yards at small outcroppings or breaks in the foliage to admire the view over the river. The trails are well used, but they’re also well maintained and obviously well loved. Man-made staircases lead down some of the steeper sections of the river bank to the water below, where I could imagine sitting for hours casting a line.

Presumpscot Falls

As Bryan and I walked further downstream, we happened upon signs for the river’s portage, where kayakers and canoeists can hop out of the river before they inadvertently shoot down what looks to be class 3 or 4 rapids. You can’t really see or hear Presumpscot Falls until you’re nearly on top of them. A slight bend in the river combined with a short uphill keeps the falls out of sight for much of the hike. But when you do finally happen upon them, the roar of the crashing water and sight of foaming curls makes for an intense and exciting experience.

Stomping down a quick downhill nearby, I noticed an interpretive sign posted by the Portland Trails organization. Apparently in the 1700s, early settlers to the area had built a dam just downstream from the falls in order to capture some of the power of the river. Mills were built, and the falls were covered by the high waterline. Later, what was known as the Smelt Hill Dam was turned into a hydroelectric facility that helped power the nearby community. Flooding and storm damage eventually shut down the facility, and in 2006, the State of Maine deconstructed the dam, finally revealing Presumpscot Falls after more than 260 years.

We spent a few minutes exploring the area around the falls, and just past them, you come to the end of the Portland Trails owned land. You can head onto private property beyond, but beware because at that point, you’re trespassing and that information is posted. A few hundred feet past the end of the trail is the recovered land where the Smelt Hill Dam used to reside. I don’t recommend you go down there, but if you do, be prepared to talk to unhappy landowners. I, for one, am prone to exploring reclaimed and/or abandoned areas, so take that as you will.

Upstream

After spending a good amount of time at the falls, we headed back upstream and hiked past the approach trail we had taken to the river walk. The trail winds its way NorthWest following the contour of the river. At several points we noticed small offshoot trails, marked “Loop,” which take you up into the woods and back down to the trail. We continued our hike over a few trail bridges and made our way towards the area where Interstate 95 passes over the trail. We stopped at a tree whose boughs overhang the river. The tree is perfect for a tree swing, and I’m sure that’s exactly what hangs there during the summer months. As the mid-Autumn daylight began to fade, Bryan and I took one last look at the beautiful Presumpscot River, then set off for the trailhead. It was time for a late lunch.

Short, but Satisfying

The entire Presumpscot River Sanctuary trail system only covers approximately 2.5 miles overall, but it feels like an oasis in the middle of the brick and concrete of Portland and its suburbs. The main attraction is, of course, the river itself, but the rest of the sanctuary offers a richness of flora and fauna that will make you forget that you’re still within Portland’s borders. Spend a few hours wandering the trails, staring at the rapids, or dropping a fishing line into the river. It’s a great local refuge from the busy-ness of city life.

For more info on the Presumpscot River Sanctuary, or to learn about the rest of the Portland Trails system, visit www.trails.org.

To view more images from the trip to Presumpscot River Preserve, Go HERE!

If you liked this post, try these:

• TRIP REPORT: Portland Trails – Fore River Sanctuary
• The List
• Help decide my next trip!

From day 2 of my first S24O camping trip. Tuesday, September 22, 2009.

If you liked this post, try these:

• S24O Recap
• S24O Preparations
• The Five

Successes:

• Found the campground and got a nice site
• Hiked to the top of Bradbury Mountain with a loaded backpack
• Had a roaring campfire all to myself
• Finished a book by headlamp/campfire light
• Learned a lot about my current gear
• Started (almost) a fire using magnesium firestarter

Failures:

• Lost my $115 Oakley sunglasses on the trail
• Found my gear to be incredibly bulky and heavy
• Forgot the battery to my camera
• Trekking pole lost parts
• Insufficient amount of water
• I have no rain gear
• Headlamp died
• Knee started to hurt
• Chafing. Enough said.

General Observations:

• Need insoles and taller socks for boots
• Heavy cook kit
• Tent was heavy, too big for one person
• Need to improve my backpacking skills
• Found out there’s apparently a pocket for a water bladder in my pack. Will need to use that in the future

Overall, I consider the trip a success. It’s a great way for me to both get outside to enjoy camping and have a nice campfire, and also to test my gear and my skills. I love that I was able to find out what works and what doesn’t, and seriously improve upon my techniques. In the spring, if I’ve been able to meet a few goals, I’ll get a new touring bike with panniers and do an S24O on my bike.

If you liked this post, try these:

• S24O Video Update #2
• 16 Hours of Camping
• S24O Preparations

From the first day of my S24O camping trip. Monday, September 21, 2009.

If you liked this post, try these:

• S24O Video Update #2
• S24O Recap
• 16 Hours of Camping

The plan as it stands is to pack everything in my giant Lowe Alpine backpack, a behemoth with nearly 5000 cubic inches of cargo space and pockets galore. I bought this pack around 1997 for multi-day backpacking trips, but it’s hardly been used for that purpose, and now that I’m 12 years older, I’m thinking a smaller, more compact and lightweight model would be better for me. For now, though, I’m taking it with me to test how well the pack and I hold up.

Once I’m packed, I’ll head up to Bradbury Mountain State Park in Pownal, ME, pick a campsite, and then do some day hiking, pack fully loaded. I’ll make sure to take some video and post it up here on the site after I get back. Since moving to Maine, I’ve only spent one night in the woods, so you can imagine how much I’m looking forward to this. I only wish I’d realized I could do this sooner!

If you liked this post, try these:

• S24O Recap
• S24O Video Update #2
• S24O Video Update #1